Goldfish and Aquarium Board Articles
Betta Basics
By Liv and Maria
 

About Bettas | Care in Bowls | Care in Tanks | Tank-mates | Diet | Printable Article

Betta Latin: Betta Splendens (aka Siamese Fighting Fish) Family: Belontiidae (labyrinth fish) Origin: South East Asia Special Characteristic: Has a labyrinth organ (sort of lung) that allows the fish to breath air Life span: 2 to 3 years (occasionally longer) Size: 2-3 inches Sexing: Males often have longer fins although some types of bettas are naturally short-fin. Females are normally broader and more muscular looking and they may be more dull in color than males. A sure sign of gender is the oviposter (visible egg tube) on the underside of females.

Male Betta

Female Betta

Bettas make for wonderful pets and first fish. They are fun, inquisitive and interactive. The many varieties and colors available make buying bettas a treat. A labyrinth organ enables a betta to breath air and many people maintain that bettas have to breath air or else they will drown. But they do have functional gills as well. However to err on the side of safety it is important to ensure that bettas can make it up to the surface to take those breaths of air if they like to. Their air-breathing ability makes oxygen supply in the water less of a concern and bettas can therefore be housed in smaller tanks/bowl. However, this does not mean they have to be kept in small quarters. They enjoy stretching their fins and they do well, and most would argue better, in large tanks. Unfortunately this beautiful and easy-to-care for fish has been misrepresented and sold under false pretenses. Some people sell betta vases - trying to convince people that the vase with a peace lily and a betta makes for a perfect ecosystem and there would be no need to change the water or even feed the betta. Sadly many bettas lived (and died) under those conditions but thankfully most owners and sellers have become more educated. Unfortunately many stores still sell 'betta-containers' that are too small. Ammonia and waste will build up fast in these containers and the bettas have no room to move and are doomed to a short life of suffering. Here we will try to explain both how to care for bettas properly in bowls and in tanks.

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Keeping bettas in bowls or uncycled small tanks
Provide at least 1 gallon of water Provide access to oxygen by leaving a space between the water line and the cover of the tank/container Keep them ammonia free by performing frequent water changes Keep them at a consistent temperature Cover the bowl completely with a vented cover/lid

How to take care of a betta in a bowl or a 100% water-change tank

• Have test kits for ammonia and pH (minimum)
• Make sure the temperature of the water is room temperature (ideally is should be around 77-79). Never place a betta in cold water.
• Condition the water with an ammonia binder (preferably Amquel combined with Novaqua, or you can use Prime).
• After first placing your betta in the bowl - measure for ammonia everyday. When it shows up, change the water. Next time change the water one day earlier than you had to the first time. For example, if ammonia showed up on day four - you need to change water every three days.

How to perform 100% water changes

Draw up your change water 24 hours before the water change - condition the change water at least 5 minutes before you add your betta. Have ready a 'change container' where you will put the betta while you are cleaning his bowl--something clean that has never been washed with soap. You can also use this container to scoop up your betta. It does not have to be very big. Have something ready to cover your change container with. Take the betta out of the bowl/water change tank using a cup or the change container rather than a net. Once you have the betta in the cup (this will take some practice), cover the cup with your hand and once you put the container down have something ready to cover it with. Cover the change container. If you work close to a sink cover the drain with a plastic strainer to avoid losing your betta this way. Empty the bowl and all it contains. Rinse everything under hot water (do not use soap). Use cloth or paper towels to clean the glass. Fill up the bowl with the water that has been sitting out (and that you have conditioned) Make sure the temperature is close to the water he was in. Add betta back in bowl. Cover bowl Watch the happy "I love my new water" wiggle dance.

A 'change container'

Betta Condos

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Betta in tanks

• cycle the tank before you add the betta
• are careful about tank mates as bettas are not social fish.
• never put two betta males in the same tank
• do not mix male and female bettas. Due to inherit aggression they may fight and if they spawn the male will be very protective of the bubble nest and try to kill the female.
• Make sure there is not too much water movement as this causes stress and torn fins.
• add live or silk plants to provide a sense of safety for a betta as well as a place to lie on
• do not put sharp objects or plastic plants in the tank as sharp object may tear bettas fins.
• cover the tank completely (use plastic canvas or plastic wrap to help you)--Bettas jump.

You can read more about taking care of tropical tanks here.

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Betta tank-mates (maybe)

• Always have a back-up plan (empty container ready) for your male or female bettas. They can be very cranky and unsocial.
• Avoid too colorful tank-mates, such as colorful guppies, platys. They may be seen as rivals.
• Avoid aggressive tank-mates that may nip on bettas fins (such as barbs)
• Avoid similar fish - like gouramis
• It is often best to add the betta to the community tank last in order to minimize aggression
  

You could try:

• snails
• shrimp
• otos
• cories
• kuhli loaches

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Betta diet

• Bettas are carnivores. They need high protein food.
• Feed a varied diet to ensure that you cover all the basics
• Avoid freeze dried food (or at least reconstitute before feeding)
• Feed once or twice a day
• Feed sparingly. Bettas have stomachs the size of their eye

Suggested Foods:

• Hikari Betta Pellets (or cichlid baby pellets) makes good staple (feed 4-5 pellets at a time)
• Frozen bloodworms (thawed should be part of the diet)
• Frozen krill (thawed)
• Frozen brine shrimp or mysis shrimp (thawed)
• Frozen beef heart (not too often)
• Pea - shelled and cut in small pieces (once in a while - bettas love them)
• Home made and commercial gel foods
• Live food (daphnia, mosquito larvae, midge fly larvae, grindle worms, fruit flies, etc) makes the best food if you can pull it off

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Taking care of bettas: conclusions

A happy well adjusted betta will be active during the day, hunt for food, and respond when you interact with it. Bettas may rest on leaves or on the bottom of the tank when they sleep. If you keep its water happy and feed a healthy diet, your betta should live for a long time, its color should sparkle and the fins should remain strong. If your tank/bowl provides a quiet surface area, male bettas (and sometimes but rarely females) will build bubble-nests. These labors of love are built to house future betta eggs.

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